Travel Journal » Meandering Through Marienplatz

Tuesday brought my fourth day in Munich and at this point I was navigating around like a pro. Okay, fine, the morning started off a little unsteadily as there were moments of walking around in circles trying to figure out which way I was heading (not sure why we’re on iOS 8 and the blue dot in Maps is still not an arrow) but I found my bearings and headed towards Marienplatz, Munich’s city center. Dating back to the 12th century, Marienplatz is the heart of Munich and used to be home to medieval markets, celebrations, and tournaments.

At 11:00 am and noon, tourists gather to take in the Rathaus-Glockenspiel in the magnificent, neo-gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall), replete with gargoyles, statutes, and a dragon scaling the turrets. The Munich Glockenspiel recounts a royal wedding and a jousting tournament on the top level, and a ritualistic Barrel Makers’ dance on the lower level, while different melodies play on the clock’s 43 bells. Lasting about 15 minutes, the show concludes with the golden bird up the top emerging and chirping three times. I came out of the station just in time to catch the delightful display.

 Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall)

It was apparent as soon as I landed in Munich that there are probably a total of, I don't know, 20 Asians in Munich. Despite Munich being Europe’s top technology hub and containing the second largest number of publishing houses in the world outside of New York, there is surprisingly very little diversity in this city. Looking back now, I’m realizing there were actually no black people either. I received a lot of stares when I was out and about but living in one of the most, if not most, racist countries in the world (Murica!), I wasn’t too fazed. Marienplatz, however, was full of tourists from most likely every continent and huge crowds of people filled the entire square chattering in numerous foreign languages. It was fascinating to see so many people gathered together from all over the world to admire the massive cathedral-like tower and architecture of Neues Rathaus. (This thing is so colassal it's virtually impossible to get a picture of it without using a drone.)

Cenotaph of Emperor Louis IV by Hans Krumpper inside Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Dear Lady)

Inside Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Dear Lady)

Inside Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Dear Lady)

I spent the day getting lost in the streets, observing people enjoying meals outside, walking in and out of churches, and doing some shopping. Munich is an expensive city but as the Dollar/Euro exchange rate is very favorable right now (about $1 to 1€), I didn’t have to deal with the additional stress of calculating the exchange rate every time I purchased something. Americans say the Euro is weak, Europeans say the Dollar is strong — either way, Europe is on sale right now and I’m glad I was able to take advantage. 

Open-air stalls of Viktualienmarkt

Open-air stalls of Viktualienmarkt

Biergarten (beer garden) Viktualienmarkt

The weather had been rainy, cloudy, and cool since I landed so I was delighted to have a gorgeous sunny day with a temperature of 83 degrees. After grabbing a smoothie, I made my way over towards Viktualienmarkt (victuals market) to explore the market stalls. The market boats 140 stalls and shops offering flowers and plants, fruits and vegetables, meat, herbs, spices, delicatessens, wine and tea, and more. There are butcher shops, open-air cheese and produce stands, beer halls, and plenty of places to sit, eat, and drink.

That’s one of my favorite things about Munich and Europe, for that matter — al fresco dining. There are always people sitting out and about, sharing a meal and a drink, and catching up while taking in their surroundings. In Munich, I love how there is never a rush to get the check but everyone takes the time to enjoy the beautiful weather, delicious food, cold beers, and each other's company under the cool shade of giant trees. It's evident that Munichs (a term I coined for people who live in Munich) appreciate the pleasures of a slower pace of life that is filled with good food, good friends, and good times, and it's definitely a practice I want to incorporate into my own life.

---

Travel Journal » Finding Comfort In Discomfort

Monday morning and my third day in Munich brought my first day of being on my own. My friend had flown into Munich for work so my week ahead was empty in plans but filled with enthusiasm to seek out adventure. I had booked a tour to Salzburg on Thursday but besides that my schedule was open to come and go as I pleased. Prior to leaving for Germany, I had done some research to get an idea of activities I wanted to do and places I wanted to see, but I also wanted to be flexible to new opportunities. 

Outside of venturing to foreign places by myself for school, traveling has always been with someone I was dating, in large groups, or with my family — so basically, never alone. I had grown accustomed to moving around with someone else and sharing experiences so I was in uncharted territory, literally and figuratively. Despite feeling apprehensive, I was looking forward to challenging myself.

After sleeping in and working on a few articles in the hotel room, I set off to explore the surrounding neighborhood and area. At first I had been hoping to be in a hotel closer to city center but as the days passed I liked how the hotel was further removed from the majority of the tourist areas. Walking down streets and through neighborhoods where locals worked and lived provided a more authentic experience of Munich's culture. 

View fullsize

Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower)

View fullsize

Rita McBride's 'Mae West' at the Effnerplatz

My first stop was to a Vodafone retailer where I bought and swapped out my SIM card. This was definitely better than purchasing an international data plan through my wireless carrier as I was able to get more data and minutes for a better price. Sure, I didn’t have my original number but I could call people if I needed through apps like KakaoTalk or Line — my only real need for data was for readily accessing Maps.

I then headed over to a nearby two-level supermarket and spent the next hour perusing the aisles. That may sound like a dull way to spend your time in a new city but I absolutely loved it. The smell of freshly baked bread and sandwiches floated through the aisles and I loved seeing the different array of fresh foods and fruits that were packaged and neatly displayed. I delighted over grocery products in packaging I recognized but words I couldn’t read, and looked uncertainly at foreign products I would never see on shelves in America. Then I bought and ate a sandwich in the café section of the supermarket while I people watched. It was fantastic.

Whenever I’m walking around in Washington D.C. or when I’m out and about on my own I have a tendency to listen to music, as, for the most part, I prefer to exist in my own bubble. Walking around with my headphones in ensures 1) I’m always entertained, but mostly 2) everyone leaves me alone. And perhaps it has a lot to do with 3) never feeling uncomfortable. It's partly why we all constantly stare emptily at our phones every chance we get, isn't it? I decided not to do that in Munich and instead listen to the cars, the buses, people's conversations carrying out into the streets, and the sounds of the city — to the hustle and bustle of everyday life I hastily block out back home.

Monopteros in the English Garden

Ceiling of the Monopteros 

I allowed myself to get lost for a bit and then headed over towards the English Garden. There’s something enthralling about researching a place and subsequently seeing it in person. I love the sensation of your brain recalling a memory of a picture along with your preconceived idea of what you thought something would be like, and simultaneously combining that with the reality of what you’re looking at — the way it feels to see one of the Wonders of the World or finally be standing in front of an iconic landmark. I felt the same way when I was staring up at the Leaning Tower of Pisa. I had written about the English Garden and the highlights of it so it was surreal to leisurely walk down the paths and across fields I had viewed in pictures and enjoy a beer in front of the Chinese Tower I had been so fascinated with. The entire time I was radiating with light like Yvaine in Stardust — an electrifying buzz of elation pulsating in my brain and coursing through my veins. Mostly, it was a sense of accomplishment, a 'holy shit, I'm really here doing this!' awareness, and feeling really fucking pleased with myself.

Looking at Munich's skyline from the steps of the Monopteros

I had been feeling slightly lonely and self-conscious exploring on my own — walking around by myself while I passed couples and groups of friends laughing — but walking through the English Garden, I was overcome with a tremendous sense of peace and tranquility, and for the first time in a long time, I felt comfortable with being uncomfortable. I've always had a tendency to retreat within myself — distancing myself from human experiences and expanding the bubble I exist in. Perhaps I had gradually developed too much complacency in comfort and too big of an aversion towards discomfort. I slowly began to let air out of that bubble, allowing myself to be open to feelings and the world I had carefully disconnected from, and sitting on the steps of the Monopteros, staring across the expansive green landscape towards Munich's skyline dotted with churches, I knew everything was going to be okay.

---

Travel Journal » Chasing Castles

Sunday morning and my second day in Munich started off extra early in order to watch the Mayweather vs. Pacquiao fight, which aired at 6 a.m. local time. It was still raining steadily when I got out of The Keg Bar, and it’s always a bit jarring when you enter an underground bar when it’s dark out and emerge hours later into the early morning light.

My friend and I had some time before we needed to head to Hauptbahnhof (Munich’s main railway station), where our tour was leaving from, so we escaped the rain by heading into a nearby McDonalds. I love checking out McDonalds all over the world not only because of the variety of the menus but because it’s interesting to see how the interior and atmosphere varies from country to country. My best memory of a McDonalds abroad was in Florence a few years back. It was incredibly expensive but the lights were dim and glowing, electronic music was playing on the speakers, and everyone was dressed up — it was basically a club that happened to serve McDonalds.

Travel tip: Check Viator regularly prior to and during your trip as they occcasionally offer specials for a savings of 20% - 50% off their original tour prices.

A coffee and scrambled egg McMuffin platter later, we headed to Karstadt department store, as all of the buses of Munich’s local tour company Gray Line Sightseeing depart in front of it. I had booked the ‘Royal Castles of Neuschwanstein and Linderhof Day Tour from Munich’ tour on Viator during the course of my research prior to leaving for Germany. As luck would have it, Viator happened to have incredible deals for Munich so I was able to book the tour for $35 as opposed to the usual $58 (offered locally for 49€).

There are plenty of ways to travel to sights and cities around Germany on your own but given my short time in Munich, I didn’t want to have to deal with the hassle of finding my way around and trying to book train and bus tickets. There are definitely cons to tour groups, such as a limited time at each location, but I also love the ease of being transported from place to place while being given a background of the destinations I’m visiting. Our guide, Elizabeth, explained in great detail the history of Munich, Bavaria, the life of King Ludwig II, and the palaces he built. In addition, these aren’t small Greyhound buses but large double-decker buses, which are rather roomy and comfortable. We grabbed the two very back seats on the upper level of the bus and set out towards castles in the rain.

Our first stop was Schloss Linderhof (‘Schloss’ is ‘castle’ in German), situated a little over an hour southwest of Munich in Graswang Valley, near the village of Ettal. It is the smallest of the three palaces built by King Ludwig II of Bavaria and the only one he lived to see completed. The “Royal Villa” is a splendid Rococo palace inspired by the opulence of Versailles from the age of Louis XIV of France.

Neuptune Fountain and music pavilion at Linderhof

Schloss Linderhof

Luckily, the rain mostly cleared up when we arrived and though overcast, we were able to roam the grounds and take incredible pictures before heading into the palace for our timed tour. (Timed tours simply mean your pre-purchased ticket is at a set time.)

You aren’t allowed to take pictures inside but from an ivory chandelier to the Hall of Mirrors, each room contains opulent and extravagant furnishings dedicated to the Sun King Louis XIV who King Ludwig II idolized. Linderhof is exquisite and absolutely worth visiting and touring inside if you have an opportunity. 

Schloss Linderhof

We then boarded the bus to head to our second stop of the Bavarian village of Oberammergau, world-famous for its woodcarvers, richly painted houses (Luftl-paintings), and Passion Play. During the 17th century, the bubonic plague was raging throughout Europe. The surviving population of Oberammergau came together in 1633 and took a vow — that they would perform the "Play of the Suffering, Death and Resurrection of our Lord Jesus Christ" every ten years if God would spare the village further suffering. From the moment the vow was taken, there were no further deaths in the village and all those who were ill from the plague recovered, and the town has been performing the Passion Play ever since.

Hansel and Gretel house in Oberammergau

I loved the fairy tale houses (Luftl fresco paintings are characteristic decorations on houses in Alpine regions) and it was interesting to see a Bavarian village but Oberammergau felt a bit like a tourist trap. Most of the shops in Germany close on Sunday but fortunately there were a few souvenir and wood-carving shops open to peek in and out of. We strolled around the neighborhood, looked at the grand theater where the Passion Play is held, and then headed back to the bus.

Hansel and Gretel Luftl painting in detail in Oberammergau

We continued our journey to the magnificent, neo-Romanesque style Schloss Neuschwanstein, which was the inspiration for Disney's Sleeping Beauty Castle. The bus dropped us off at Hohenschwangau, a small village at the foot of the castle, where we had time for lunch and an opportunity to explore the grounds of Neuschwanstein before our timed tour. We wasted more time than necessary by going from restaurant to restaurant trying to narrow down the “best” place to eat. We ultimately settled on one and ordered rather untasty pasta dishes but we were full so it did what it needed to.

I had researched Neushwanstein prior to my trip for my own knowledge as well as for this blog but I hadn’t realized exactly how much walking it would entail. From the town of Hohenschwangau up to the castle is a 30 to 40 minute walk (depending on your pace) up a steep hill. Luckily, the Stairmaster and walking the treadmill at an incline is incorporated into my regular gym routine because without it I definitely would have struggled. Prepare to sweat. However, there are also horse drawn carriages that can take you up and down the hill if you prefer not to schlep it like a commoner.

Walking up the hill towards Neuschwanstein

Pictures don’t do Neuschwanstein justice, as it is a truly majestic and spectacular experience walking up the hill towards this towering castle set against the Bavarian Alps. We passed the castle and made our way towards Marienbrücke (Mary's Bridge), a wooden bridge crossing a large gorge with steep cliffs on both sides. The view from the bridge is unbelievable as you’re able to take in the grandeur of the castle in its entirety and the landscape from a great height. We ended up losing track of time taking pictures and videos on the rickety bridge and raced back down to the castle to our tour — we made it just as our group was walking in. The interior of Neuschwanstein wasn’t as lavish as Linderhoff but it was still so delightful to walk through the rooms and observe the artwork, furniture, and detailing throughout.

View of Neuschwanstein from Mary's Bridge

Following the tour, we made our way through the gift shop and spent far too much time trying to decide what unnecessary souvenirs to buy (magnet or shot glass?!), ended up losing track of time, again, and raced back down the hill to the bus and, again (thankfully), made it just in time. It was an exhausting day but my eyes and heart were filled to the brim by the awe and beauty of the day's magnificent sights. Even the rain and clouds added romance and enchantment to the experience.

Once we got back to the station around 7 p.m. we picked up a pizza and salads from a nearby restaurant, cabbed back to the hotel, and happily munched away at cheesy deliciousness while we stretched our sore legs and recapped the day.

Castle chasing is hard work. 

---

Travel Journal » Guten Morgen Deutschland

My first impression when I landed in Frankfurt, Germany was simultaneously how impressive the airport architecture was, as well as how disarmingly good-looking the German men were. I had to go through passport control before heading to my gate to my connecting flight and perhaps it was the Polizia uniforms, but yes. More, please. Munich men, unfortunately, not so much.

Travel tip: When leaving Franz Josef Strauss Airport in Munich, all of the terminals link to the S-Bahn. You can take either S-1 or S-8 to get to Hauptbahnhof (central station) where you can easily transfer to the U-Bahn. The S-8 is 5-6 minutes faster but get on whichever train arrives first if Hauptbahnhof is where you want to transfer.

The flight from Frankfurt to Munich was only a half hour or so but by the time I landed I was exhausted from 11 hours of traveling and it was now 1:00 am back home. After meeting my friend we decided to forego a cab to the hotel and take the S-Bahn as I wanted to get a look at the German countryside. The funny thing about Munich is that it’s almost exactly as you would imagine it to be. We passed green pastures dotted with yellow flowers, slowly pulled into and out of the quaint stations along the tracks, and rolled through sleepy towns that ended in -schleißheim. The scenery through the train car window was familiarly comforting.

We ended up hailing a taxi from Hauptbahnhof, the main central station, but could have easily taken the U-Bahn (Munich’s underground railway system) to our hotel, which was only 8 stops away. The transit system in Munich is incredibly well organized and easy to use, and the ticket machines offer multiple language options so you don’t have to deal with the anxiety of, well, not being able to read or understand German.

Breakfast at Wiener's Cafe

After dropping off our bags at our hotel we had a Bavarian breakfast of smoked salmon on greens, eggs, hash browns, and a basket of bread along with a glass of Rosé. The Rosé was a nice touch. I really should start off every breakfast with a glass. 

After checking into our room and a quick nap we ventured out and started exploring the city. We had both (naturally) researched Korean restaurants before our trip so we went to the one with the best reviews. Korean restaurants in foreign countries are always interesting because they’re all different but entirely the same, down to the very Chinese-influenced decorations. The majority of my travels through the world have been with my family arranged through Korean travel agencies, which meant stopping at least once at a Korean restaurant (often the only one for miles). Old school Koreans (my father included) are notoriously picky eaters. The fare is always the same on these tours: bulgogi (grilled marinated beef), giant vats of jjigae (stew), and a variety of banchan (side dishes).

Kim’s is a small restaurant run by a small Korean woman, and while the place was virtually empty when we stepped in, by the time we left the entire place was filled with local Germans. Kim’s offers traditional Korean fare you would expect to find at a typical Korean restaurant from meat dishes to soups. We ordered a seafood pajun (pancake), my friend ordered bulgogi, and I ordered the soondubu (tofu soup), along with an ice cold glass of beer for each of us. 

Seafood pajun at Kim's

The seafood pajun had teeny pieces of seafood in it and it was mostly fried batter but it was crispy and delicious, and the weather was rainy when we landed so my warm stew definitely hit the spot. All in all, the food wasn't anything extraordinary but surprisingly adequate. I know that doesn’t sound particularly favorable but you can’t have high expectations for Korean food when you’re in a city or country with a very low Korean population so you learn to adjust your expectations. So 'adequate’ is actually a compliment.

After dinner we went searching for a beer garden as we are in Munich, after all. Bavaria’s beer gardens date back to over 200 years and there are more than 180 beer gardens of varying sizes in and around Munich. A great feature about Munich’s beer gardens is that you’re allowed to bring your own food as long as you purchase drinks. This dates back to 1812 when King Max Joseph I wanted to allow all citizens, even those who couldn’t afford to purchase the food, to enjoy the gardens. We decided to skip the famous Hofbräuhaus as it seemed too touristy for us and instead went to Augustiner Keller, which has been around since 1812. With about 5,000 seats it's the third largest beer garden in Munich. The service was terrible as I’ve found most German places to be but the beer was fucking delicious. I’ve never been a fan of beer but beer in Munich is liquid gold. 

Insile hall of Augustiner Keller Beer Garden

It was an incredibly lovely day and I'm excited to see what adventures await me. Tomorrow brings castles which I'm really looking forward to.

Gute Nacht and Auf Wiedersehen!

---

Travel Journal » IAD — FRA — MUC

Paris is always a good idea but to be honest, anywhere different from where you live is always a good idea. I’m a firm believer travel does wonders for the soul, which is why I couldn’t turn down the opportunity to visit Munich, Germany for a week. Dealing with ongoing personal issues, still reeling from a breakup I should have been over months ago, and unsure about the direction of my life, I was craving any opportunity to explore the world and fill my heart with happiness and wonder again.

When the idea of traveling to Munich first arose, I did what any person in this day and age age would do. I Googled, ‘Is Munich worth visiting?’ My initial search results weren’t particularly favorable. I was going to be using my carefully saved miles so it was important I visited somewhere “worth it.” While I realize this is an incredibly subjective question to be asking a search engine, I knew thousands of people before me had wondered and asked the same, and I was curious to know what my fellow citizens of the world thought of this Bavarian capital. My initial reaction was to wait — to see if somewhere “better” would come along — but the more research I did, the more I fell in love with the history and culture of the city, and I came to terms with the reality that any city you visit will be what it is you make of it. And honestly, how much of our lives do we waste waiting for something better to come around? How often do we fail to see the beauty and significance in the opportunities directly in front of us while we’re chasing something we think is bigger and greater? So with barely two weeks to prepare I decided to pull the trigger, and here I am, sitting on a Boeing 747, headed towards Frankfurt, Germany to make my way towards Munich.

I’ll only be in Germany for a week but I’ll gladly to take it. And through this culmination of events I can’t help thinking how funny and unexpected life is — how the people you think will remain forever are the quickest to abandon you and those you think will remain in the shadows emerge in your greatest time of need. A year ago I couldn’t have imagined I would be where I am in my life now and just a few weeks ago I couldn’t possibly have fathomed I would be sitting on a plane to Germany but isn’t that what makes life so beautiful? How unpredictable and unexpected it can be? How painful and heartbreaking it can be but almost immediately, how it will redeem itself and provide you with an opportunity and series of events that will take your breath away?

I’m on my way towards a completely new city on the other side of the world feeling nervous and excited, heart and mind open to adventure, friendships, and new experiences. I’m constantly hoping to revive and redeem others but for the next week I’m on a journey to restore, renew, revive, and redeem myself.

---

Europe's First Public Garden: Bavaria's Englischer Garten

Munich’s Englischer Garten (“English Garden”) is one of the largest urban parks in the world – even larger than Central Park in New York and Hyde Park in London – with an area of 370 hectares (910 acres). Named for the English style of landscape gardening, the English Garden was commissioned by Elector Karl Theodor in 1789 and designed by Benjamin Thompson.

wikimedia.org

iclimbedthat.wordpress.com

The park is popular with locals and visitors alike who come to lounge and picnic on grassy meadows, bike through winding paths, imbibe at the beer gardens, surf, or sunbathe naked. There are over 100 bridges and footbridges, as well as hedgehogs, squirrels, wild rabbits, hares and foxes, and 50-60 species of birds that breed in the English Garden. The English Garden is divided into two parts, separated by the Isarring, a road that goes through the park.

wikimedia.org

grossbritannien.org

holidaycheck.com

Highlights of the English Garden include:

• Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) and its huge beer garden which seats 7000 people;
• Japanese Teahouse, where you can take part in a traditional tea ceremony on the weekends;
• Monopteros, a Greek-style temple, the highest point in the English Garden offering great views over the park and the city;
• Lake Kleinhesseloher See, where you can rent a paddle boat, and its idyllic beer garden Seehaus; and
• Schönfeldwiese, the lawn where nude sunbathing has been allowed since the 1960's.

geolocation.ws

pflanzmich.de

---

The Castle Of The Fairytale King: Bavaria's Neuschwanstein Castle

Neuschwanstein Castle was built between 1869 and 1886 on the ruins of Vorder and Hinterhohenschwangau under King Ludwig II of Bavaria. The castle was built on a rugged hill against a backdrop of picturesque mountain scenery, and is known all over the world as a symbol of idealized romantic architecture and for the tragic story of its owner. King Ludwig II's extravagance and romanticism earned him the title Mad King Ludwig.

aviajar.info

slappedham.com

wikimedia.org

Neuschwanstein was intended to "embody the true spirit of the medieval German castle," as King Ludwig II wrote in a letter to his friend Richard Wagner, and he planned his private refuge with the help of a stage designer rather than an architect. The picture cycles in the castle were inspired by the operas of Wagner (such as "Tannhäuser" and "Lohengrin"), to whom the king dedicated the castle, and the corresponding medieval legends from Wagner’s works. Despite the medieval motif of the decor, the castle was actually outfitted with latest technology of the time with running water and central heating.

mr-horsey.com

medievalarchives.com

Today Neuschwanstein is one of the most popular of all the palaces and castles in Europe. Every year 1.4 million people visit "the castle of the fairytale king” that was the inspiration for Disney’s Sleeping Beauty castle.

dorulcalator.ro

wikimedia.org

huffpost.com

Want to live in your own fairytale castle? Here are 7 stunning castles in Europe you can buy right now.

---